It’s interesting to see Marco’s new line up. Its a rainbow spectrum of brilliant colors and perfect texture. – At least that’s what I think and apparently Vogue does also. Although – The men line felt a little underwhelming.
Marco de Vincenzo’s woman sees the world through a rainbow lens—literally. His exciting, fast-paced show moved as swiftly as his imagination, his girls first appearing marching briskly down a glass-fronted corridor, their multiple reflections courtesy of the artist Patrizio Travagli, who created the set. Those reflections suggested the idea of kinetic dimensionality that de Vincenzo translated into the clothes through complex layerings and texture play.
De Vincenzo opened with a girl dressed in a hooded gray flying jacket and pencil skirt (with a stripe knit in Rastafarian hues) and Jackie O–size sunglasses with both rainbow-shaded frames—and lenses. That joy in color appeared overtly in the designer’s signature slinky Lurex knits and patterned lamés, or subtly in the narrow piping of variously colored stitchwork on a khaki blouse, or in the silky moss-fringing that was sandwiched and embedded between seam overlaps to define the lines of a sleek black coat.
“I want reality,” de Vincenzo explained backstage. “What is the black coat of the Marco de Vincenzo woman? The Little Black Dress?”
FEBRUARY 27, 2015 2:16 PM
by HAMISH BOWLES